ada apa di Madura?

 foto foto ini diambil pada pagi hari kami menyeberang menuju pulau madura. cuaca cerah berawan. lalu lintas bisa dibilang lengang. makin keujung pulau makin sepi. 

madura terdiri dari 4 daerah tingkat II. bangkalan, sampang, pamekasan, dan paling ujung timur adalah sumenep. di bangkalan ini masih ada mall dan restoran dengan menu istimewa bebek sinjay dan bebek songkem bisa diperoleh disini. kami tidak sempat mencicipi keduanya tetapi makan bebek keraton di sumenep. 

kebanyakan tempat wisata ada di bangkalan. tetapi kraton adanya di sumenep. sementara dari jembatan suramadu, sumenep masih berjarak sekitar 4 jam dengan kendaraan pribadi.

ada apa di madura? ngapain ke madura? kira kira begitu pertanyaannya dari orang orang yang belum kenal madura. 

jangan lupa icip bebek sinjay ya. nah, ini pesan dari yang sudah ke madura.

kenyataannya, madura masih seperti apa adanya. kelihatan damai. bukan terbelakang ya. tapi lebih tenang. tidak ada kehidupan malam. suasana islami terasa. sederhana juga tidak. banyak rumah rumah yang dibangun dengan mewah penuh selera. batik batik khas madura berwarna warni. makanannya enak enak. 

kali ini dengan bertanya tanya kami jalan jalan ke madura dalam waktu singkat. akibat kereta yang datang terlambat plus ada acara mendesak yang harus dihadiri sebelum berangkat. bismillah saja semoga selamat sampai ditujuan. apakah kami mampu mengunjungi semua tujuan wisata yang disarankan d tripadvisor atau tidak, adalah nomor sekian.

secara umum sih perjalanan lancar. silaturahmi ke rumah sahabat dari jaman kecil pun terlaksana. sampai pulang lagi, rasanya mata sedikit menjadi lebih lebar.

 

danau biru, bukit jaddih, bangkalan

 

 sesuai rute, 1st stop di danau biru, bukit jaddih, bangkalan. banyak penunjuk jalan untuk sampai disana. jangan lupa kenakan sunglasses. sebab sebenarnya danau ini terbentuk dari bekas tambang galian kapur. bukan bekas sebenarnya sebab saat kami disana, masih ada penambangan. 

kolam didalam foto ini menurut tukang sampan, dalamnya sekitar 1,5 meter. dengan cuaca panas begitu kelihatan mengundang untuk dipakai berenang. sayangnya banyaknya pengunjung dan penambang menghalangi niat itu wkwkwk

melihat ada pohon yang ditanam dan hidup waktu itu dan ada ikan yang hidup dikolamnya, kemungkinan kolam itu aman juga untuk bermain air. 

 ini juga bekas tambang di area yang berdekatan tetapi berakhir menjadi kubangan berwarna gelap yang terlihat seram seperti ini. kapur yang ditambang ini sebagian digunakan sebagai pengganti batu bata merah untuk membangun rumah. bedanya kalau disini batu bata akan ditumpuk rapi menjadi tumpukan segi empat, kalau di madura kebanyakan hanya digeletakkan begitu saja didekat area pembangunan atau ditepi jalan.

bukit jaddih ini nampaknya dikelola warga sekitarnya seperti yang terjadi didaerah daerah lain akhir akhir ini. tetapi kalau dibandingkan dengan cara atau gaya pengelolaan wisata oleh warga di jogjakarta, madura masih perlu berbenah. dari segi kerapian, keramahan, dan lain lain. saya yakin akan terus menjadi lebih baik seiring berjalannya waktu.

 

 

candi sukuh di lereng gunung lawu

Sukuh (Indonesian: Candi Sukuh Indonesian pronunciation: [ˈtʃandi ˈsukʊh]) is a 15th-century Javanese-Hindu temple (candi) that is located on the western slope of Mount Lawu (elevation 910 metres (2,990 ft)) on the border between Central and East Java provinces.
Sukuh temple has a distinctive thematic reliefs from other candi where life before birth and sexual education are its main theme. Its main monument is a simple pyramid structure with reliefs and statues in front of it, including three tortoises with flattened shells and a male figure grasping his penis. A giant 1.82 m (6 ft) high of lingga (phallus) with four balls, representing penile incisions,^[1] was one of the statues that has been relocated to the National Museum of Indonesia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukuh

Sukuh is one of several temples built on the northwest slopes of Mount Lawu in the 15th century. By this time, Javanese religion and art had diverged from Indian precepts that had been so influential on temples styles during the 8th–10th centuries. This was the last significant area of temple building in Java before the island's courts were converted to Islam in the 16th century. It is difficult for historians to interpret the significance of these antiquities due to the temple's distinctiveness and the lack of records of Javanese ceremonies and beliefs of the era.^[2]
The founder of Candi Sukuh thought that the slope of Mount Lawu was a sacred place for worshiping the ancestors and nature spirits and for observance of the fertility cults.^[3] The monument was built around 1437, as written as a chronogram date on the western gate, meaning that the area was under the rule of the Majapahit Kingdom during its end (1293–1500). Some archaeologists believe the founder had cast the fall of Majapahit, based on the reliefs that displaying the feud between two aristocratic houses, symbolizing two internal conflicts in the kingdom.^[4]
In 1815, Sir Thomas Raffles, the ruler of Java during 1811–1816, visited the temple and found it in bad condition.^[5] In his account, many statues had been thrown down on the ground and most of the figures had been decapitated. Raffles also found the giant lingga statue broken into two pieces, which was then glued together. This vandalism of traditional culture (especially where sexuality is not suppressed, as in the statues) is likely to be an effect of the Islamic invasion of Java during the 16th century, based upon the identical patterns found in all other Islamic and monotheistic invasions generally.
The central pyramid of the complex sits at the rear of the highest of three terraces. Originally, worshippers would have accessed the complex through a gateway at the western or lowest terrace. To the left of the gate is a carving of a monster eating a man, birds in a tree, and a dog, which is thought to be a chronogram representing 1437 CE, the likely date of the temple's consecration. There is an obvious depiction of sexual intercourse in a relief on the floor at the entrance where it shows a paired lingam which is represented physiologically by the (phallus) and yoni, which is represented bodily by the (vagina). Genitalia are portrayed on several statues from the site, which is unique among Javanese classical monuments.
The main structure of Sukuh temple is like no other ancient edifice; it is a truncated pyramid reminiscent of a Maya monument and surrounded by monoliths and meticulously carved life-sized figures. The Sukuh temple does not follow the Hindu architecture Wastu Vidya because it was built after the Hindu religion had weakened. Temples usually have a rectangular or square shape, but Sukuh temple is a trapezium with three terraces, with one terrace higher than the others.^[6] A stone stairway rises through the front side of the pyramid to its summit. It is not known what the monument's unique shape was intended to symbolize. One suggestion is that it represents a mountain. There is no evidence that the main building supported a wooden structure. The only object recovered from its summit was a 1.82-metre lingga statue bearing an inscription and it is now in the National Museum of Indonesia). The statue may once have stood on the platform over the stairway. The lingga statue has a dedicated inscription carved from top to bottom representing a vein followed by a chronogram date equivalent to 1440. The inscription translates "Consecration of the Holy Ganges sudhi in ... the sign of masculinity is the essence of the world."^[3] Reliefs of a kris blade, an eight-pointed sun and a crescent moon decorate the statue.
The wall of the main monument has a relief portraying two men forging a weapon in a smithy with a dancing figure of Ganesha, the most important Tantric deity, having a human body and the head of an elephant. In Hindu-Java mythology, the smith is thought to possess not only the skill to alter metals, but also the key to spiritual transcendence.^[5] Smiths drew their powers to forge a kris from the god of fire; and a smithy is considered as a shrine. Hindu-Javanese kingship was sometimes legitimated and empowered by the possession of a kris.

A headless life-sized male figure grasping penis

The elephant head figure with a crown in the smithy relief depicts Ganesha, the god who removes obstacles in Hinduism. The Ganesha figure, however, differs in some small respects with other usual depictions. Instead of sitting, the Ganesha figure in Candi Sukuh's relief is shown dancing and it has distinctive features including the exposed genitalia, the demonic physiognomy, the strangely awkward dancing posture, the rosary bones on its neck and holding a small animal, probably a dog. The Ganesha relief in Candi Sukuh has a similarity with the Tantric ritual found in the history of Buddhism in Tibet written by Taranatha.^[5] The Tantric ritual is associated with several figures, one of whom is described as the "King of Dogs" (Sanskrit: Kukuraja), who taught his disciples by day, and by night performed Ganacakra in a burial ground or charnel ground.

The scene in bas relief The scene depicted Bhima as the blacksmith in the left forging the metal, Ganesha in the center, and Arjuna in the right operating the tube blower to pump air into the furnace.

Other statues in Candi Sukuh include a life-sized male figure with his hand grasping his own penis and three flattened shells of tortoises. Two large tortoise statues guard the pyramid entrance and the third one lies at some distance in front of the monument. All of their heads point to the west and their flattened shells may provide altars for purification rituals and ancestor worship.^[3] In Hindu mythology, the tortoise symbolizes the base or support of the World and is an avatar of Vishnu, i.e. Kurma refer: Ocean of Milk.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukuh

 setelah ulangan akhir semester, anak anak ada outing tahunan. krena banyakanya acara yang berurutan, mama mamanya tidak mau kalah juga pengen jalan jalan. awalnya sekalian arisan ber17 tetapi dengan beraneka sebab yang sulit diterima, kami berangkat ber8 dan satu lagi nyusul berangkat sendiri. ber8 ini kami menyewa mobil dengan sopir. supaya tidak ada yang kehilangan kesempatan menikmati trip ini karena capek nyetir. 8 dewasa dan 2 balita plus driver dalam 1 kijang inova. untel untelan gitu deh. tapi seru sih.

 tujuan pertama ke taman hutan raya yang dibangun oleh KGPA Mangkunegoro ke I kalau tidak salah. berupa hutan yang rindang dan ditumbuhi beraneka macam pohon keras. ada akasia ada pinus ada jati. disini ada bumi perkemahan dan beberapa penunjang lainnya. temoatnya cukup tinggi sehingga disarankan menggunakan kendaraan yang terpercaya dan sopir yang memiliki kemampuan mengemudi yang baik. terutama jalan menuju pulangnya. 

dibawah tahura ini ada candi sukuh yang keterangannya seperti dikopas dari wikipedia diatas. sekilas kadang ada rasa mistis kalau berada disini. sudah sekian kalinya ke candi ini tetapi tidak pernah mengamati dengan detil. sepertinya dulu digunakan untuk persembahan sebab ada altar disana. bentuk candi hindu ini pun berbeda dengan candi prambanan, misalnya. entah karena bangunan lain sudah musnah karena bencana alam atau memang sejak awalnya memang demikian.

 setelah bosan jalan jalan, foto foto, bercanda sepanjang perjalanan, kami makan siang di cafe ndoro donker, tidak jauh dari candi sukuh, ditengah tengah kebun teh kemuning ngargoyoso. begitu kami duduk, hujan yang awalnya hanya rintik rintik, semakin deras. hilanglah kesempatan berfoto ditengah kebun. 

cafe ini dulu hanya ada satu bangunan tunggal berupa rumah lama. kemudian dalam perjalanannya, makin disukai dan cafe menambah luas area untuk duduk duduk dan minum teh disini. mereka menyediakan beraneka jenis teh. sebagai pelengkap, ada beberapa jenis makanan berat dan makanan ringan. 

awalnya menurut saya harganya menengah. murah tidak tetapi mahal juga tidak. ditambah suasana disekelilingnya, harganya cukup pantas.

 dua tempat yang menarik ini berada di timur kota solo. jadi setelah keliling kota solo, mengunjungi kraton, belanja batik, dan makan enak dimana mana, sangat direkomendasikan untuk melanjutkan perjalanan kesini. karena transportasi umum cukup panjang dijelaskan, sebaiknya rental kendaraan saja. 

satu kijang inova isi 7 dengan driver dan bbm, untuk penggunaan 12 jam kira kira, tarif yang dikenakan kepada kami sebesasar 600 ribu rupiah. memang berat kalau bepergian sendirian. 

seandainya menggunakan kendaraan umum, bisa dicapai dengan bus jurusan tawangmangu, namanya bus rukun sayur atau bus langsung jaya. berangkat dalam beberapa waktu dari terminal tirtonadi solo. kemudian berhenti atau turun di pasar karangpandan. dari sana bisa meinta diantarkan ojeg. tetapi, jujur saja, jalan menuju kesana berkelok kelok seperti umumnya menuju pegunungan.