Kashmir : masjid masjid di Srinagar

Khanqah-e-Moula (Urdu: خانقاہِ معلّےٰ‎), also known as Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Khanqah is a controversial mosque in Kashmir, located in the Old City of Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir. Situated on the right bank of the river Jhelum between the Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal bridges, it was first built in 1395 CE, commissioned by Sultan Sikendar. The present mosque stands atop the widely revered ancient Hindu temple of Kali Shri.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khanqah-e-Moula

sepertinya hampir semua masjid yang kami kunjungi di india berada dekat dengan pasar kecuali masjid di Fatehpur Sikri. jadi seringklaintidak terlihat tampak depannya dengan jelas. malah sering kesannya kumuh karena banyak kios di sepanjang pagarnya. apalagi masjid syeh hamdan ini. 

saya tidak bisa masuk ke bagian dalam masjid tua yang sudah tidak asli lagi ini. beberapa kali masjid ini habis dilahap si jago merah. bahkan kalau tidak salah, terakhir terbakar tahun 2017. konon masjid ini kontroversial sebab dibangun diatas kuil hindu yang dihancurkan. bahkan sumurnya masih dipertahankan didalam masjid. 

mungkin karena awalnya dari kuil hindu, saya melihat sebatang dupa yangs udah dibakar diselipkan di beberapa tempat di dinding masjid. ditambah lagi dibagian belakang ada makam dan ada orang yang sepertinya sedang berdoa disitu dengan membawa sesaji.  

 kotak sedekah di depan pintu masjid. begitu saya mendekat, beberapa orang yang ada disitu langsung waspada dan mencegah saya masuk. saya mengintip dari jendela, sepertinya hiasan didalamnya rumit dan berwarna warni.

 ruangan ini yang boleh digunakan oleh jamaah perempuan. saya bertemu seorang ibu menggendong bayi yang sakit dan berdoa di sini. jadi membingungkan antara masjid dan kuil bukan?

 hiasan rumit warna warni dengan aneka pola ini mengingatkan saya pada patrika gate di Jaipur. 

 pola rumit lainnya didinding masjid ini.

 saya tanyakan seseorang mengapa ada ikatan ikatan kain atau pita di sini. saya pernah melihat foto seutas tali panjang dengan banyak ikatan seperti ini konon di Kathmandu. ikatan pita/kain ini seperti menandai doa yang dipanjatkan di sana. saya tidak pernah tahu ajaran islam seperti ini. mungkin itu sebabnya masjid ini disebut kontroversial ya. karena sejarah pembangunannya.

 sebagian besar bangunan masjid terbuat dari kayu yang tentu mudah terbakar. tetapi tampaknya setiapkali terbakar langsung direnovasi dan dipulihkan kembali seperti semula.

pola rumit vas bunga seperti di dinding Amber Fort di Jaipur. lihat hiasan bunga di pagarnya? 

 hanya bisa memandangi dindingnya membuat saya penasaran ingin masuk ke dalam.

 masjid ini berada di tepi sungai. sepertinya saat kami di sana, air sungai sedang meluap tetapi tidak sampai naik ke halaman masjid. 


Jamia Masjid (Urdu: جامع مسجد سرینگر‎) is a mosque in Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir, India. Situated at Nowhatta in the middle of the Old City, the Mosque was commissioned by Sultan Sikandar in 1394 CE and completed in 1402 CE,^[1] at the behest of Mir Mohammad Hamadani, son of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani,^[2] and is regarded as one of the most important mosques in Kashmir.^[3] The architectural style of the Mosque is inspired by the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, which is a blend of Indian and Mughal styles,^[4] and also bears similarities to Buddhist pagodas.^[5] The Mosque is located in Downtown which remains a central zone to the religio-political life in Srinagar. Thronged by Muslims every Friday, it is one of the prime tourist attractions of Srinagar.^[1]
 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamia_Masjid,_Srinagar

 tepat di gerbang masjid jamia ini juga pasar yang cukup ramai. saya sempat melihat lihat sebentar. mengingat kami tidak mau beli bagasi tambahan, tidak beli apa apa di sini.

 begitu masuk kedalam, setelah melepas alas kaki, ini yang terlihat pertama kali. kemudian di sisi sebelah kiri dan kanan adalah tempat sholat yang ditopang tiang tiang raksasa dari kayu. 

 di depan sini kami melepas alas kaki. di masjid ini adalah perempuan diizinkan masuk dan sholat di sini.

 sepertinya ada 378 tiang di sekeliling tempat sholat. saya melihat beberapa ibu yang menyentuh setiap tiang sambil mengucapkan doa.

 sepanjang sejarahnya, meskipun sejak awal masjid ini dibangun memang untuk masjid, tetapi mengalami beberapa kali penutupan oleh rezim yang berkuasa pada saat itu. alhamdulillah saya masih mendapat kesempatan untuk berkunjung.

 

It is not only the religion that has attracted the people of the state to the Mosque. The Jamia Masjid has been a hot-bed of raging political discourse on the present turmoil in the state, and the politics that has unfolded in Kashmir has led to curbs and gags on congregations here. Its roots, however, lie deeper in history. The Mosque also became a platform for people to debate and discuss the politics of the Kashmir conflict much earlier before the conflict erupted in Kashmir valley.^[6] According to historian Mohammad Ishaq Khan, “Jamia Masjid has primarily played a significant part in imparting religious education. However, with the spread of modern education among Kashmiri Muslims, thanks to the efforts of Mirwaiz Ghulam Rasul Shah, the Masjid began to play a seminal role in the growth of political consciousness. Sheikh Muhammad Abdullah was, in fact, initiated into what I would call the mysteries of Kashmiri Muslim politics at Jamia Masjid by Mirwaiz Muhammad Yusuf Shah.”^[7]

Sikh Era (1819-1846 CE)

For 21 years,^[6] the Mosque faced closure under the Sikh regime of Maharaja Ranjit Singh beginning in 1819 AD, when the-then Governor, Moti Ram, put curbs on offering prayers in Jamia Masjid.^[8] No prayers were offered and no call for prayers was given from the Mosque. It was reopened by Sikh Governor, Ghulam Muhi-ud-Din, in 1843^[9] who spent nearly a lakh and a half of rupees on its repair. But for 11 years, rulers allowed prayers only on Fridays. The Mosque would be opened for just few hours on Fridays and closed again.^[6]

July 13, 1931

The martyrs of July 13, 1931 were taken to Jamia Masjid after the police opened fire and 22 people were killed and hundreds injured. The bodies of the martyrs were laid in the compound of Jamia Masjid where Sheikh Abdullah, Mirwaiz Maulvi Muhammad Yusuf Shah and other leaders started delivering speeches against Maharaja Hari Singh.^[6]

Post 1947

Prolonged closure of the Mosque once again came into effect since 2008 when the Amarnath land row erupted. The decision of the Omar Abdullah government to prevent people from offering Friday prayers for weeks together led to massive outrage.^[7] Ban on religious congregations in 2008 was seen as an attempt to choke the rebellion whose epicentre was the hotbed of separatist leaders, the areas in old city, particularly around Jamia Masjid.^[6] During the Mehbooba Mufti led BJP-PDP coalition government, the Mosque was again "locked down for three months in the uprising of 2016 and in 2017 for the first time even Jumat-ul-Vida congregation during Ramadan was not allowed and in 2018 for 16 Fridays, prayers were barred at the Mosque."^[10]

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamia_Masjid,_Srinagar